I will be working with a 2.4 out of a wrecked PT. The block was cracked due to the accident. The engine came with everything; injectors, sensors, wiring harness, throttle body, etc. The head is mainly what I am after. Bob will be supplying and building a shortblock for me. With the 2, we will have a happy marriage. When the engine is complete, I will do my swap out. For now, I am learning more about this engine from the tear down and inspection.

My (project) car. 2001 Limited.

Original engine. Has 22,000 miles now. Runs strong.

2.4 with 1100 miles. I bought it from a totaled PT. Block is cracked.

Rear View

Front

Exhaust Side

Top view. Cams are out. This motor is super clean.

Cams and caps.

This is the balance shaft assembly. It will be removed when the motor is redone.

The balance shaft assembly weighed in at 14lbs. That is a pretty good weight savings. Plus it will be less rotational mass for the crank to spin up. It may cause a little more vibration at idle, but I will have to see once the new engine is in.

This is the front part of the crankshaft. To the right of the pic you will see where the Crank Position sensor goes into the block (looks a little like a lifter). It reads the notches located on that front counterweight.

These are those "twig" rods you have heard about. You don't realize how puny they are till you have them out of the engine. If you are looking to "boost" your HP (250+) and not cross your fingers every time you run hard, then you may want to upgrade these puppies. I will be using the Turbo 2.5 rod, rebushed to fit a forged Wiseco piston.

I also wanted to show a closeup of how close to the top of the piston that top ring land is. If you are running a higher boost, and experience detonation this may, after a few times, collapse this land. I will not be taking any chances. I want an engine I know is done right for the application I will have.